After 8 years, we found ourselves back on this quiet little island, and I kept asking myself the same thing the entire trip, is Koh Chang actually worth it.
I’ve always been more of a social traveller. I like places that feel alive. Crowds, movement, somewhere you go out without thinking twice. Trips where you’re constantly on the move, hopping from one place to another, filling the day without even trying.
But this time felt different.
For Songkran, we wanted something slower. Somewhere close to Bangkok, but far enough to feel like a break. Koh Chang felt like the obvious choice, even though I wasn’t completely sure what to expect going back after all these years.
[Feature Image Credit: Unsplash Photo by Flowdzine Creativity]
What Koh Chang is actually like
If you’re used to places like Phuket or Koh Samui, Koh Chang feels like a shift. Less crowds, less chaos, less polished, but more raw in a way that feels untouched.
It’s a nature-forward island. Jungle, mountains, beaches that feel a little less curated. Compared to when I first came 8 years ago, it’s definitely more developed now, but nowhere near the level of those bigger islands. And that’s exactly what keeps it feeling slower.
Days move differently here. There’s less to do, but that almost works in its favor. You stop checking the time as much. Most places wind down by 10 pm, with maybe a few bars stretching to 2 am if you’re lucky, but nightlife isn’t really the focus.
The island itself is split in a way you feel almost immediately. The right side, especially around Kai Bae, is where things happen. Restaurants, bars, cafés, somewhere you can just walk and see where you end up. It’s where most visitors stay.
The left side feels quieter. Less developed, more local, more jungle. The roads are easier, the views open up more, and there’s this untouched feeling that makes the drive worth it.
Getting around is part of the experience. The roads curve up and down steep mountains, narrow in some parts. And although there’s no Grab, there’s a local food delivery app called Changy, which we ended up using more than expected on days we didn’t feel like leaving the hotel. It’s simple, easy, and honestly a nice option when you want something different from hotel food.
The reality of getting there
Getting to Koh Chang is straightforward, but it’s one of those things people tend to underestimate.
From Bangkok, the drive takes around 4 to 6 hours to Ao Thammachat Pier, depending on when you leave. The ferry itself is quick, about 20 minutes, and if you’re bringing your car, the process onto the island is surprisingly smooth.
The way back is where it gets tricky. After around 10 am, queues start building up at the pier, and it’s not unusual to see cars lining up for kilometres, waiting anywhere from 1 to 4 hours just to get a ticket.
The only real way around it is timing. We left the hotel at 8:30 am, got to the pier just before 10. There was no queue and we bought tickets immediately, waiting about 20 minutes for the boat to arrive. The whole process took about an hour and a half.
Where to stay
For pet parents, book Dinso Resort & Villas Ko Chang, Vignette Collection by IHG
Everything here feels softened. The wood, the textures, the way Thai elements are blended with something more modern. Dinso is calm without trying too hard. It’s not right in the middle of everything, but that’s kind of the point. It’s the kind of stay where families bring their dogs, where mornings stretch out longer than planned and nothing really needs to happen.
For a quiet, no-kids escape, book The Retreat Koh Chang
Smaller, quieter, and intentionally so. No kids, no noise, just this stillness that feels curated. The Retreat is more of a splurge, but it definitely gives you exactly what you came for, which is a space to truly disconnect.
For something familiar and easy, book The Dewa Koh Chang
This one feels nostalgic. It was the first place I stayed on the island, and it carries that classic Koh Chang energy. Slightly tropical, slightly worn in, but in a comforting way. It’s not overly polished, and that’s exactly why it works.
For a Bali-like reset, book Sol Beach Koh Chang
Sol Beach feels like a different world. Wellness is everywhere, from the outdoor gym to ice baths to yoga spaces that make you think maybe I should wake up early tomorrow. Whether you’re staying the night here or just popping by for lunch, somehow you’ll end up staying much longer than planned.
For a full Thai immersion moment, book Santhiya Tree Koh Chang Resort
Detailed, intricate, and fully leaning into its Thai identity, Santhiya can feel almost theatrical at first, but once you settle in, you realize how thoughtfully it’s been maintained. The pool villas feel like their own little world, with views that make you pause. It’s not minimal or modern in the usual sense, but it’s immersive in a way that stays with you.
What you actually do in Koh Chang
Honestly, not much. And that’s kind of the point.
This was one of the first trips where most days, I didn’t leave the hotel until around 3 pm. It’s not an itinerary-heavy kind of place, and if you try to force it to be, it doesn’t really work.
We went in April where the waterfalls were dry, which made the idea of trekking in the heat feel unnecessary. You can still go, but for us, it didn’t make sense. And that’s something you start to realize quickly here. You don’t do things just because they’re “on the list.”
Most days fell into their own rhythm. Breakfast, a slow morning, maybe the gym, then hours by the pool without really checking the time. It’s the kind of place where the day stretches without you noticing. By mid-afternoon, we’d finally get ready, head out for a late lunch, maybe drive around the island a bit, and see what we stumbled upon.
And that’s really how Koh Chang works. It’s less about planning and more about discovering small things along the way. A random hotel with a quiet walkway that leads to a hidden beach. A slightly hippy café tucked away somewhere you didn’t expect. Kayaking along the coast, or just pulling over because something looks interesting.
There are things to do, diving is a big one here, with long-established schools and proper trips out if you’re into it. But even that feels optional, not something the island pushes on you.
The food scene
You should try the seafood (duh). But Koh Chang isn’t really the kind of place where you chase the best meal of your life. It’s more about finding places that feel right in the moment.
If you don’t want to overthink it, Dang Seafood is one of those reliable spots. Fresh, simple, reasonably priced, the kind of place you go to when you just want good seafood without turning it into a whole thing. But if you’re willing to travel further down, Ban Dit Bar feels more like an experience. The Thai-style fish sashimi is incredibly fresh, and the whole place has this laid-back atmosphere where you cannot find anywhere.
For something more indulgent, Mordi e Fuggi was our Italian go-to. The kind of place you end up returning to without thinking twice. The pizza, the pasta just hits especially after a couple days of Thai food. Right next to that, El Barrio does Mexican surprisingly well. It’s one of those places that feels a bit unexpected on an island like this, but you’re glad it’s there.
And then there’s Sol Beach Koh Chang, which is less just a restaurant and more somewhere you end up spending half your day. Everything is solid, the food, the drinks, the setting, and that’s why it’s always busy.
If you want a unique food experience, check out Ban Ta Klua. However, we skipped the restaurant and booked their set dinner on a traditional Thai boat instead. It’s simple, intimate, and quietly special. You drift past the mangroves as the sky turns into that soft orange hue. Their signature menu focuses on local Trat flavors, but we opted for the Thai classics instead like green curry chicken and tom kha gai.
I also have to mention the grilled chicken spots, because somehow those ended up being some of my favorite meals. Ray Rai Grilled Chicken sits right by the beach, super casual, but during lunch it gets busy to the point where you’re waiting close to an hour for your food.
And then there’s Riverside Restaurant that feels completely different. More local, tucked into the jungle, the kind of place you wouldn’t just stumble upon unless you knew about it. And after your meal, you can even walk down to the river for a quick dip.
Pimmi’s Perspective
Koh Chang isn’t the kind of place that tries to win you over. It doesn’t overwhelm you with things to do or moments you feel like you have to capture. It’s the kind of trip where the days start to blur in a way that feels comforting, not wasted.
If you’re someone who wants to slow down, or you’re on a lowkey trip where just being together is enough, it makes sense. It’s not too far from Bangkok and the island itself isn’t too small or too big. Here, expect to fall into a rhythm without trying. The same breakfast, the same lounging spots, the same late afternoons.
However, I do get why it’s not for everyone. If you need movement, energy, something new every hour, it can feel repetitive. Almost like nothing is really happening.
Personally, Koh Chang is worth visiting, but not in the way people usually expect. It’s not instantly impressive, but if you let yourself settle into it, the stillness starts to feel right.
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